Thursday, March 24, 2011

The Fascinating Mysterious World of Bobbin Lace

As you may know, I've been learning a little about bobbin lace.  It fascinates me to no end.  Not sure why.  It's not something I've always dreamed of doing or something that I really knew anything at all about.  It kind of snuck up on me and bonked me over the head with the "kit from hell." (Not my term for it.  It's how it's known in the lace making world.)

At a fiber festival last October, I saw a beginner bobbin lace kit from a company whose name starts with L.  Like I said, I didn't know the first thing about bobbin lace but it promised that it had everything one needed to begin and I believed them.

Unlike many other kits and whatnot, I actually opened the kit, got all the stuff out, read the directions, and boom!  Everything ground to a halt.  Worst Directions Ever for a Beginners Kit.  And the award goes to......

You guessed it.  This kit.  The supplies were fine but the instructions were horrid.  I did remember, though, that one of my volumes of Weldon's Practical Needlework (Vol 11) (published between about 1890 and 1910) had something on Torchon Lace so I dug it out and amazingly, it had better directions than the kit.  So I used the materials from the kit and the instructions from the Weldon's, I started out.  I later found a very good book at my local library (which they've now lost).

Now that I've been practicing a little, I've found some other books that give even better instruction and, best of all, I've found a group of lacemakers from whom I've learned more in 2 meetings with than I could have learned on my own in 5 years.  Because it's such an obscure craft, finding information without having those people around is really hard.  The L.A.C.E. group has been wonderful.

But, also because this is a bit obscure, I wanted to share what I've learned about the craft.
  1. Lacemakers use pillows.  But the pillows tend to be made out of straw or a particularly forgiving type of styrofoam called Ethafoam.  And they're all different shapes.  Depending on the type of lace you're doing, you might use a cookie pillow or a bolster pillow or a roller pillow.  Click here to see a variety of pillows used.  As in other of the the tools, the type of pillow is closely tied to the type of lace being made and the region where that lace was perfected.
  2. Lace is made with bobbins.  More correctly, lace is made with pairs of bobbins.  No matter which type of lace you're making, patterns will always use pairs of bobbins.  You only work with 2 pairs of bobbins at any one time, although the real lacemakers work so quickly, you might not realize that's what they're doing.  Here's an interesting video that shows the basic moves of the bobbins (you can work it "hands up" or "hands down" - who knew?).
  3. But there's more to the bobbins than you might guess at first.  The look of the bobbin will indicate where the bobbin shape originated.  The 2 main categories (although there are tons of sub-categories) are English and Continental.  (Does that sound familiar to any of you knitters out there?)  Have a look at this website for the wide variety of bobbins.  Click here to see the Continental bobbins and here for the "Midlands" and "Honiton" bobbins.  And then click here for more of the English style bobbins.  These tend to be decorated with "spangles" on the end like this:
  4. The different types of laces you might hear about are Torchon (what I'm learning and what seems to be an entry type of lace), Honiton, Brussels, Guipure (such as Saxony, Cluny, Maltese and Bohemian), Bucks Point, Tønder, and more.  They all have things that distinguish them but I'm not sure what all that is at this point.
  5. The thread.  Some laces tend to be made out of ultra-fine thread such as 180/2, which is probably a bit finer than sewing thread, I would imagine.  But you usually wouldn't use anything much heavier that size 30 thread for traditional lace.  Maybe that was the hook.  You know I'm a sucker for anything with a fine thread, right?  (Those of you who just said I'm a sucker for anything with thread should just hush or I'm coming to see YOUR stash.)
  6. Bobbin lace making was a staple money maker for lacemakers in England, France, Belgium, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, Italy and in the early history of the US.  It is still practiced in all those countries as well as in Australia.
It really is an abosorbing craft, not practiced by many.  But I would recommend looking out for lace makers in your area and see if you don't accept a serving your own self.

From an earlier post that never got posted:

I've crocheted doilies and I've knitted them and tatted them now I'm bobbin lacing them. This is my first attempt at something other than a straight line and, as usual, I've met with mixed sucess. But I'm enjoying it and that matters the most of everything.

What I'm doing here is Torchon lace on a round, flat cookie pillow (which is basically a type of styrofoam covered with cloth), and I'm using the beginning bobbins that came with my beginner kit.

The pricking (pattern) is copied from the Torchon Lace Workbook onto colored cardstock and then covered with clear plastic to keep the ink from rubbing off onto the thread. (By the way, this is one of the books that's highly recommended for starting and which helped me a lot but it's out of print.  If you keep your eye out, however, you can snag one for about $20.)  I'm using 10/2 cotton, aka bedspread weight cotton. It's not the usual thread used for lace making but I have plenty of it, it's a light color and it's a light enough weight to make the largest version of this pattern. So 10/2 it is.

As each stitch is made, a pin is inserted in the place marked on the pattern to keep it in place and to help make clear turnings when you're changing directions. This pattern uses a half stitch, a full stitch, a Torchon ground and a cloth stitch. The half stitch and the full stitch are used in the making of the ground and the cloth stitch.
The thread was really too heavy for this pattern but, once again, I learned so much that it was worth doing it first with this thread so I could figure out how to turn the corners and work my way around.  This one isn't really fit for anything other than learning but the next one will be better and I'll actually let you see the finished product!

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Upcoming Classes

It's been a busy, busy year so far and the next couple of months will be no exception. 

Here are the classes I've got coming up.

First of all will be Three Sisters Folk Art School in Chillicothe, IL.  The classes during the weekend of April 15-17 will include a class on Knitting Lace.  This is going to be such a luxury to have the whole weekend to spend on knitting lace.  Classes will start Friday evening, go all day Saturday and to mid-day on Sunday.  All lace, all the time, baby.  There will be a number of other classes going on, too, so get a group and hit all of them!

Class List
Lace Knitting
Needle Sculpting an Art Doll
Pinhole Photography
Sewing and a Little More
Introduction to Lathe Work
Woodcarving
Fine Metal Clay & Jewelry Making Techniques
Traditional Rug Hooking

In May, a class on Spinning for Lace has just been confirmed for the Kentucky Sheep and Fiber Festival.  They haven't posted the workshops yet but info will go up next week.  Keep an eye on the link above for registration to open.  By the way, there are going to be a boatload of vendors there with all things fiber.  Definitely worth a trip to Lexington, KY.  The other cool thing is that the Festival is tied to the Bluegrass Classic Stockdog Trial.  I had a ball there last year.  Here's the scoop on the class:


WORKSHOP: Spin for Lace


INSTRUCTOR: Dianna Smith

DATE: Saturday, May 21st 9:00 am – 12:00 Noon

DESCRIPTION OF WORKSHOP: Learn a few “tricks of the trade” that will help you spin a lighter gauge, and consistent yarn. Students will learn techniques for spinning different types of fibers and different types of fiber preparations to achieve the best yarn for knitting lace.
SKILL LEVEL: Students should have basic spinning skills.
WORKSHOP FEE: $ 45
MATERIAL FEE: $15
MATERIALS NEEDED: Spinning Wheel or Spindle, 3 Bobbins, Niddy Noddy

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Just the Cutest Thing

Let me show you something...

No, I haven't bought a new spinning wheel but if I'd seen this for sale, it would have been really, really hard to pass up.  I don't know if it functions but it's the cutest thing I've ever seen and it weighs about an ounce.  Goodness me.

It's actually just passing through.  Evidently there's a little network out there that will get antique wheels from one end of the country to the other.  I believe this one came from Nevada and is heading to Michigan.  A friend of mine brought it here from Iowa and was supposed to meet someone who could take it to Chicago on the next leg.  Unfortunately, that link seems to have fallen through but since I was headed back to the Chicago area this weekend, I said I would take it.  And the person it's going to lives just a few minutes from where I'll be meeting with the LACE group.  Cool, n'est pas?

I feel honored just to have fostered this lovely little thing in my home.  Fair trip, little spinning wheel.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Overshot Weaving

We've just finished the workshop on Overshot Weaving with Vicki Tardy and what a weekend.  My brain is so full, it's overflowing.  What everyone said about her it true - great teacher, knows her subject back and forth and every which way.  She takes all the mystery our of it and makes it an adventure! 

I used a whig rose pattern and here are some of the samples I was able to get done:

The first one here is my regular pattern woven as drawn in with handspun Border Leicester, then with purple zephyr (wool and silk lace weight).
These are variations of the pattern using variations of the pattern and a variety of pattern threads.
This is the same pattern using a brocade variation (on the left) and 2 variations of the pattern woven "treadled as twill." 
It's all in the teacher, I assure you.  I can't wait to work the remaining warp.  Look, Ma, I'm weaving!  

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Warm Hands

Back in February, the Yarn Harlot had a post about knitting mittens from unspun silk hankies, also known as mawata.  I had heard about doing this before but seeing hers gave me that, "I could do that" sort of feeling and, being the possessor of mawata in the undyed format, I decided to truck along.

I got my mawata (have a look at her post because she's got a good explanation of silk and how it gets to be like this) and started drafting. 

I drafted more finely than she did.  That is, I took the hankie as you see it here, stuck my finger through the middle of it and pulled it out into a big circle.  Then I broke the circle open and drafted out until it looked like the strand at the top of this pic.
And I knitted, like she did, just my basic, everyday old mitten pattern until I ended up with these.
Hers were cushy, thick silk mittens.  Mine are thinner, not as cushy but every bit as warm (did you read how warm silk is?) and I made mine so they could be an inner mitten.  I'll have this lovely silk on the inside and wool on the outside. 

Definitely the best of both worlds.  (And it's still cold enough to wear them - unfortunately!)

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Progress

After the last post, I did want you to know that, thanks to YouTube, I'm progressing.  Woohoo, YouTube.  I remembered my friend, Jennie, saying that you had to use the 2 shuttles at once but I didn't remember if it was every pass, every couple of passes, every once in a while, everytime I think of you...Wait, I think that's a song.  Anyway, I tried a few things and then decided to find a vid because I was sure someone had posted a vid and viola!
Look, Ma, I'm weaving!

I would tell you more but I'm late for work so that will have to wait for the next post (with more pics).

But I did want to show you my finished "travel" pillow for bobbin lace, which I'm getting used to now and think it's going to work:

The pillow is in a self-contained box and the paraphenalia fits into the second box.  I've just got to rig a carrying case for the two and I'll be set.  I also need to sew a couple more fabric blocs but I'll add as I go along.  There's not much progress here but I do now have a section of the lace completed.  I've also got this going on.  I was told this tread was too thin for this size pricking but I already had the bobbins wound so I'm going to work the length with this tread.  It does for my purposes of practice anyway.

This is also a pillow I made.  Well, most of it is.  The part I'm working on was the pillow from my original Lacis kit.  Beginning steps but, oh so fun!

Thursday, March 3, 2011

In Over My Head

One of the disadvantages of wanting to learn new things is that you so often find yourself in that most uncomfortable position of being in over your head.  Boys and girls, I am now officially and undeniably in over my head.  A good "friend" has convinced me to take a workshop on overshot weaving.  If you've ever seen old coverlets, you're probably familiar with the look, even if you didn't know that's what it was called.  Here's a sample:
Pretty but not a beginner technique, I wouldn't have said.  And I am without doubt, the rankest beginner.  In fact, I'm such a beginner that I could count the number of things I've ever woven on the fingers on one hand and those were on rigid heddle looms.  This pretty little pattern is woven with a 4-shaft loom.  And that's a different thing altogether (in case you didn't know it).

Now, in my favor I know the following things:
  1. I know what thread is.
  2. I know what yarn is.
  3. I know what a shuttle is.
  4. I know what a loom looks like.
  5. I know what a 4-shaft table loom is (because I just purchased a used one from TLD Designs in Westmont - near Chicago - cool place, you should go) but I first handled one about 4 hours ago.
  6. I know what the parts of the loom are and what they're supposed to do (sort of).
  7. I know people who weave.
No doubt, those are all good things to know and will get me started.  Here are some things I don't know (or don't know much about):
  1. I don't really know how to read the weaving patterns.  I thought I did until I tried to actually follow one tonight and realized, I don't really know.
  2. I don't know what a block is.
  3. I don't know what a tabby is.
  4. I don't know what I'm doing.
Granted the don'ts are a shorter list than the dos but, let's be real, I stopped because #4 really just covers it.

In over my head, while it can be uncomfortable, is also kind of exciting.  I like being reminded what it feels like so when I'm teaching, I'm never very far from that feeling that so many of my students are also feeling.  It gives me a lot of patience. 

But it's also uncomfortable enough to feel like the weekend after next is going to be a collosal waste of time - mine and the instructor's.  But I did get a "mini warp" put on the loom tonight and I've almost got my real warp for the workshop finished measuring out (or whatever weavers call it).  Then it's just warping 131 ends of 10/2 cotton (bedspread weight cotton for the rest of us).  I have a feeling I'm going to using a lot of terms like "thingy" or "thingymabob" or "jigger whatsit."  I have a pretty extensive generic vocabulary and it may get some exercise in the next few weeks.

I used to have a pastor who would say he didn't much trust a leader who didn't have at least one major failure in a sincere effort to serve God (or words to that effect).  I've already racked up plenty of those, so what's one more!


P.S.  I'm feeling a lot that way about the bobbin lace right now, too.  I've finished my travel pillow but attempted a new pattern this week and failed miserably.  That's next.