Thursday, November 22, 2012

Thanksgiving Day - Heritage of Crafters

In documenting the patterns in my vintage magazines, I came across the following article.  It was first published in the November 1931 issue of Needlecraft - The Magazine of Home Arts and traces the history of the woman who is almost singlehandedly responsible for the annual celebration of a Day of Thanks, the only pure holiday left to us.

Why Thanksgiving Day is Perennial – A Quilt Expert Tells the Story of Sarah Hale

By Florence Yoder Wilson

An interviewer has to be adaptable.  Able to change at the slightest breath.  For instance, take the visit made to Ruth E Finley, of quilt fame.  I went to find out about quilts and came back with a Thanksgiving story that was so good that it became THE story, and both Mrs. Finley and the quilts and her lovely home all have to take a back seat this November whilst Sarah Josepha Hale, for fifty years editor of Godey’s Lady’s Book, proudly marches through these pages and receives from each reader’s heart the applause long due her for putting Thanksgiving Day on the map, or more strictly speaking, in the calendar.

True I shall not neglect Mrs. Finley, either on persona, quilt, or Sara Josepha scores.  For it is she and no other who held me fascinated that torrid August day in Hempstead, Long Island, she who is responsible for the best book on quilts to be had, namely, “Old Patchwork Quilts and the Women Who Made Them,” and she who, in the course of her research on coverlids, met, and fell in love with Sarah Josepha Hale.

That love was no flash and disappear affair.  It developed into an absorbing passion, burned steadily for several years, and at last has blazed forth into another book by Mrs. Finley entitled “The Lady of Godey’s, Sarah Josepha Hale” (published by J.B. Lippincott Co, Philadelphia, PA), which is just in print this winter.

Mrs. Finley found Mrs. Hale while she was looking up quilt patterns for her quilt book, in the old files of Godey’s Lady’s Book.  Everyone whose grandparents, or even mothers and fathers, were born in this country must have at least a memory of this first woman’s magazine.

Reproductions of Godey’s colored plates of ladies’ fashions appear everywhere now, pasted on lamps, books, toilet boxes, match boxes and what not.  The age of hoops, and flounces, and delicate fainting females, is not likely to be forgotten, especially at the present time.  The little Eugenie hats, so popular this winter, are of that very precious period.  But whether you know Godey’s or not here’s Sarah Hale’s story, retold in my words, as Mrs. Finley told it to me.

Sarah Josepha Hale is to be reckoned as one of America’s foremost women for many reasons, but just at this time, her distinction as being the person responsible for Thanksgiving Day as we celebrate it, in unison, as a nation, is by far the most appropriate matter to discuss.

For thirty years, this indefatigable woman wrote to different presidents, the governors of states and territories, and to men and women in public life urging them to consider the value of a national Thanksgiving Day, proclaimed yearly a holiday by the government.

In the beginning as we all know, the first proclamation for a Day of Thanks was made by General Washington in 1789.  It is not so well known, however, that, following this time, there was no special date set for such a demonstration of gratitude to God for His mercies.  Each year, at variable dates, it was the habit for people to meet and keep a Day of Thanks.  Certain localities observed the custom regularly especially in the New England states, but all over the south and west, this occasion was sometimes celebrated, and sometimes not. In any event the dates varied greatly, and there was no national celebration of any kind.

Sarah Hale had an idea that a national holiday would unify the country, and draw it together in common bonds of prayer and gratitude.  It is hard for us to realize today, what this far-flung nation was before the Civil War.  Gravest doubts as to our ever being able to act as a unit assailed the most patriotic.  This state was like a European sovereignty, that state was tied up with two or three others, and seemed to have no identity; the west was divided into territories, and the far west was at best a grave hazard, against which the hardy forty-niners had thrown themselves, said some, in vain.

The deepest instincts of patriotism stirred Mrs. Hale to her thirty years’ endeavor.  But for her, Thanksgiving would have disappeared, or become merely a sectional holiday indulged in by a few New England states.

In 1863 Abraham Lincoln, acceding to Mrs. Hale’s earnest solicitations issued a Thanksgiving Day proclamation, and in the administrations following the custom has never been dropped.  Who was this Sarah Hale?  Oh, just one of our early school teachers, to begin with.  The kind that brushed the rattlesnakes off the front stoop before they went into the little red schoolhouse, and at lunch with the smallest children for fear the mountain lions would make their lunch of them.

School-teaching lasted seven years, and then came marriage, to David Hale, at twenty-five, and life began at Newport, New Hampshire.  Four children were born to the Hales and two weeks before the fifth child was born, Mr. Hale died, leaving his wife destitute – with five children to support and educate.

That word destitute has the same spelling it had back in 1826, but it hasn’t the same application and meaning.  Destitute in those days was destitute.  Sarah Josepha Hale had nothing, and no prospects.  Women did practically no public work in those days.  She tried millinery, and failed.

She wrote a book of poems, which was published.  Then she wrote a book called “Northwood,” which was also published.  Mrs. Finley says it is the first American novel by a woman, with something of the atmosphere of “Wuthering Heights” about it and that it has never been given its just due.  (Incidentally, I have never read it.  Will anyone owning a copy of “Northwood” by Sarah Josepha Hale, please communicate with me at once?) And “Mary Had a Little Lamb” – Everybody knows that poem.  Well, Sarah Hale is the author of that, too.

In January 1828, Mrs. Hale was made editor of the first real woman’s magazine ever published in this country.  The American Lady’s Magazine.  In 1837 Louis G Godey who had started a magazine of his own, tried to lure Sarah Josepha from her job, to be editor of his publication.  But she would have none of him, and so he bought the American Lady’s Magazine and consolidated it with Godey’s Lady’s Book, thereby automatically falling heir to Sarah Josepha.

Even Mr. Godey knew a real person when he saw one.  If you want to meet the lady more intimately, look for her in Ruth Finley’s new book, “The Lady of Godey’s.”  For fifty years Sarah Josepha Hale, was an editor and blazed more than one trail down which hundreds of American women walk to this day.

Monday, November 19, 2012

It's all about the journey

I have no idea why I ever wanted to do bobbin lace. I'd never seen anyone do it and knew nothing about it. But it's opened up my interest into other types of laces, particularly needle laces.

The latest experiment is Teneriffe Lace. It's a needle lace that is worked in medalians then, typically sewn to the ends of a doily or to a garment for embellishment.

Tools are simple: a small, fairly firm pillow; a long, large-eye needle; thread; long glass-head pins

Then you wind the thread and start working.  Here's a little part of my journey to Teneriffe...










Friday, November 16, 2012

Still here

Life goes on, right?  That's all I'm saying.

Tuesday night I did my first program on bobbin lace making.  The Prairie Weavers group asked me to give an overview of bobbin lace history and I thought I'd do a little practical hands-on as well.  I love doing programs for this group, they're always so involved in the programs and ask great questions.  I had a look at the tools for lace making like the various pillows and types of bobbins and then the types of lace made all over the world.
While I was preparing for the program, I thought I would do this little bookmark pattern as a sample.

When I was at the Vogue Knitting event in Chicago last month, I visited the Habu booth because I thought I might find some interesting yarn to use for bobbin lace.  I came away with a silk/stainless steel and a linen/stainless steel and a 100% ramie yarn.  With lace, you need a yarn/thread that will have some structure to it, which is why linen thread is so often used.

I tried the linen/stainless steel but it didn't work.  Too rough. But then I did this pattern with the silk/stainless steel and I LOVED it!  It's going to work great!

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Meet the newest addition

I wanted to introduce the newest addition to my family.  This is my Harrisville loom I brought home yesterday.  It has a 36" weaving width and it's so beautiful.  It was owned by my new friend, Darlene, who got it back in the early 80's.  She decided that grandkids were more fun than weaving (and who could argue with that?) so it has gone unused for a number of years.
I already have some perle cotton pulled out to start winding the warp and I'll get Laurie to help me get that first warp on.  I can hardly wait except I'll be out of town for a week or so.  So I will wait but I'll be busily planning for my return!
I think I'm finally going to become a weaver.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Too cute to count

I had no idea it had been so long since I've posted.  There's just too much to keep up with. 
Here's one thing I've been waiting to share.  I didn't want to post this until the expectant mommy got her care package. A friend of mine is having a baby very shortly and I've been working on things since I first found out.  There was a blanket (of course, from a vintage pattern) and then this little outfit. 

The jacket is my take on a vintage baby pattern that I call Baby Seed Jacket.  The original pattern was written using Berroco Comfort but since I couldn't find any of the Berroco, I decided to use Encore.  It's the same weight, fiber makeup, etc.and it proved to be a successful substitute.  I think the Comfort gives better stitch definition and I would still chose to use it if I had a choice but this was fine.  You can't tell from this picture but this was a variegated heathered yarn that went from a light pink to a light grey and I was concerned about how long the color changes were.  I still prefer the shorter changes of Berroco but, again, this was fine.

There were supposed to be 2 rows of buttons but the button holes were too far down so I decided to add a faux row.  That is, I sewed the buttons on top and added snaps underneath.  I like using snaps near the neck because the buttons can come out of button holes with the moving baby and the snaps just make it a little more secure and less fussy.

I had only written the pattern for the jacket.  But I'd bought 2 balls of yarn and used only a little bit of the second ball.  I decided I had to have a hat.  So I cast on and made the hat.  I still had yarn left over so I decided I had to have booties.  And, ya'll, I love these booties beyond all reason.  the cuff can fold up or fold down, and they're actually shaped more like a little shoe.  I decided to work the heel a little differently.  I'm sure someone will jump up and say, "That's a so-and-so heel!"  But I just made it up because I thought it looked more like a shoe than a sock and this method seemed to work the best for that. 

I decided to knit the heel straight down using the stitches from 3 of the 4 needles (3/4 of the stitches, if you're using circs or magic loop).  Once I got to the bottom, I knit the stitches of the back needle in garter (for the sole) and at the end of each row, I knit 1 stitch from the back needle and 1 stitch from the side needle together.  That bound off the stitches of the side needles and that was my heel turned.  Then I started knitting in the round again by knitting the sole stitches in garter, picking up stitches from the side edge, knitting the top needle stitches and picking up stitches on the other side.  That gave me my heel turned and my foot stitches.

On the toe, instead of decreasing like a sock, I decreased on the top only, which gives a shaped toe but leaves the sole flat, like a shoe.  I really love how they came out.  If you want to try the Baby Seed Booties, here's the pattern.  At some point, I'm going to add the bootie and hat pattern to the jacket pattern but I haven't gotten that done yet.  In the meantime, enjoy:

Baby Seed Booties

2 skeins worsted weight yarn like Encore                  1 set US size 4 (3.5mm) straight needles
1 set US size 4 (3.5mm) double pointed needles      Tapestry needle (for finishing)
2 buttons (for cuffs)

Using straight needles, cast on 32 stitches.  Knit 10 rows in seed stitches (K1, P1, repeat across)
Left bootie: Bind off 6 stitches and knit across row, distributing stitches on double pointed needles this way: needle #1 – 6 stitches; #2 – 6 stitches; #3 – 8 stitches; #4 – 6 stitches.  (needle with 8 stitches forms the heel and, eventually, the sole)
Right bootie: Knit to end.  On next row, bind off 6 stitches and distribute remaining stitches on double pointed needles this way: needle #1 – 6 stitches; #2 – 6 stitches; #3 – 8 stitches; #4 – 6 stitches. (needle with 8 stitches forms the heel and, eventually, the sole)
Knit 16 rounds.

For the next section, you will use the stitches from all the needles except needle 1 (top of foot where flap is).

Distribute the remaining 20 stitches on 2 needles (10 stitches each).  (You can leave them on 3 needles but I find it easier to manage on 2 needles.)
Work 10 rows in stockinette stitch.

Knit to end.

The next section is going to form the heel part of the sole and turn the heel.  The sole of the bootie will be in garter stitch and the rest in stockinette.

Row 1: P6, K7, K2tog.  Turn.
Row 2: Slip 1, K6, K2tog. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until all side stitches have been used. (8 stitches remaining)

You’ll now begin working in rounds again.

Round 1: K8 on one needle.  With the next needle, pick up 7 stitches along the side of the heel.  On the next needle, knit the 6 stitches that were being held in reserve.  On the last needle, pick up 7 stitches along the side of the heel.
Round 2: P8 on the “sole” needle, knit around.
Round 3: K8 on the “sole” needle to maintain the garter stitch pattern, knit around.

Repeat Rounds 2 & 3 five more times (12 rounds in all).

Begin decreases for toe.  You may find it easiest to keep sole stitches on 1 needle and divide the remaining stitches between 2 needles (10 stitches each).

(Remember to keep the sole stitches in garter.)
Round 1: Knit (or Purl) 8, next needle - K6, K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK, K6.
Round 2: Knit (or Purl) 8, next needle – K5, K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK, K5.
Round 3: Knit (or Purl) 8, next needle – K4, K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK, K4.
Round 4: Knit (or Purl) 8, next needle – K3, K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK, K3.
Round 5: Knit (or Purl) 8, next needle – K2, K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK, K2.
Round 6: Knit (or Purl) 8, next needle – K1, K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK, K1.
Round 7: Knit (or Purl) 2 together, K6, SSK, next needle – K2tog, K2, next needle – K2, SSK.
 
Kitchener the toe stitches together.

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Diggin' the Cotton

I've been on a cotton bender lately.  A few weeks ago I demo-ed at a friends booth at an event and, once again, people were fascinated by the magic of cotton.  To me, that's the only word to use.  There is something so magical about how this stuff grows (the flowers change colors and the seeds burst their bolls), how it comes right off the seed and how it spins up.  It was very satisfying to have women and men stand by me watching it all happen and being as entranced as I am.  It's like we were all just standing back watching a wonder of nature unfold right before our eyes.
I was going to use this cotton in a particular baby item but found that the thread is not suited to the technique I was going to use so I'll need to figure out something else to do with it.  For anyone who has never felt handspun cotton and who only knows cotton as that heavy or rough stuff that usually comes from commercially produced yarn or thread, they would be even more amazed at how light and soft and cushy this stuff is.

On a more wooly note, remember the Polworth yarn I was unhappy with?  Here's what happened to it:
Still no better spun but as pretty as can be.  This is the advantage to the Navajo plying and keeping the colors pure.  You get great striping like this.  I'm the most pleased at the scarf and how perfectly these vintage buttons matched the yarn.

The scarf pattern is very simple.  I cast on about 24 stitches and worked K2, P2 ribbing until I almost ran out of yarn then I crocheted the edge, including 3 loops for the buttons.  I attached the buttons at an angle so it would sit right when around the neck.  Easy, peasy.

Monday, September 10, 2012

The Puzzle's the Thing

I love learning new things and I love figuring stuff out.  At heart, I'm a problem solver, I guess. 

I've done a couple of projects now from vintage patterns that include tatting a "frame" and then needleweaving inside it.  Generally the patterns have been flower shaped (more or less).  As I've been playing around with this, I've discovered what similarities it has with Reticella work.  Have a look here and here.  Although these are much more intricate than anything I'm doing, it still bears a resemblance to how it's worked. 

My friend Karen Poulakos is vending at the Round Bobbin show in St Charles, Missouri, this weekend and I told her I would come along and demo at their booth on Saturday.  (If you're in the St Louis area, be sure to stop by booths 308 and 310 and say hi.)  While we were talking about it, I made the comment of wouldn't it be fun to do specific demos at specified times so maybe people will come by more often throughout the day.  So we hit on doing the following:

  • 11 am - start spinning with a drop spindle
  • 12 pm - knit or crochet with unspun silk hankies
  • 1 pm - anatomy of yarns: tips to choosing the right yarn
  • 2 pm - spinning cotton from the seed.
  • 3 pm - needle weaving.
  •  
    Most of the subjects are things I can do with my eyes closed but the needleweaving was a bit of a challenge because I haven't done that much of it.  I needed some samples.  See what you think of this:
     
     You've seen the brown tatting project.  It's not yet finished because I'm going to use that for my demonstration on Saturday.
     The pink panel at the bottom was just a filet crochet "frame" (instead of the tatted frame) with 3 different designs worked inside.  Click on the image to see it more up close.
    The little medialian was done completely differently.  The frame was done by laying the thread out in a square, pinning the four corners, doing a buttonhold stitch around to make the fram and then working the leaves.  I wanted an example of more of a weaving base for the petals and this is what happened.  It has such an art deco look to it.  I can just see that sort of image being used for the Miami hotels or something like the Chrystler Building.